Vines of a Lost Emprie

    I'm not immune to the charms of Wes Anderson's Grand Budapest Hotel or for that matter Stefan Zweig's The World of Yesterday, but I'm also not an Austro-nostalgic fighting for the return of the Südtirol to Vienna. Turbulent histories have marked Italy's eastern vineyards, inviting comparisons to France's Champagne region, since somehow the celebratory bubbles …